A mechanical watch is one which uses an intricate set of springs, gears and other tiny parts to move its hands around the dial . Collectively, this set of tiny pieces is known as a mechanical movement. Watches featuring mechanical movements don’t have batteries to replace and can last decades if serviced every six or seven years.

Quartz watches are battery powered and can be readily identified by second hands, which move around the dial in a series of discrete ticks. In a mechanical watch, the second hand sweeps across the dial more smoothly.

Quartz watches offer the attractive combination of low price and high accuracy (often to within one or two seconds per day). As a result, they dominate the bottom segment of the market, accounting for the vast majority of sub-$500 watch sales. For everyday timekeeping, quartz watches are hard to beat, but in terms of heirloom suitability and value on the used market, they suffer in comparison to mechanical watches.

Are more expensive watches more accurate?

Within the realm of mechanical watches, more accurate movements tend to carry a price premium. However, the correlation is not perfect, as the use of precious metals and the addition of special features (called complications) add to a watch’s price without increasing its accuracy.

To make matters worse, when you include quartz watches in the mix, the relationship between price and accuracy is turned on its head. In fact, a $100 quartz watch can readily outperform a mechanical watch costing 10, or even 100 times as much.

Somewhat defensively, mechanical movement advocates claim that unless you are a train conductor or a scientific researcher, being 15 to 30 seconds early or late will make virtually no difference. As a result, there is little need to focus on minor difference in watch accuracy.

What different types of mechanical movements are available?

Generally speaking, there are two type of mechanical movements—handwound and automatic.

Not surprisingly, the wearer of a handwound watch must periodically wind it by turning the crown, a ridged disc of metal on the side of the watch, several times in order to put tension on the mainspring. The mainspring then acts as the watch’s power source, storing enough energy to power it for one to two days.

Automatic watches also have a mainspring, though it is wound through the natural movements of the wearer’s wrist. As a result, if worn everyday it should never lose power.

What do I need to know about watch crystals?

A watch’s crystal is the transparent material that protects its face. Most watch crystals are made from one of three substances:

Acrylic : This material scratches fairly easily, but is quite shatter-resistant. Fortunately, a jeweler can buff scratches out of acrylic with little trouble.

Mineral glass : Perhaps the most common material among mainstream watches, mineral glass is less likely to scratch than acrylic but more prone to breakage.

Synthetic Sapphire : Thin slices of synthetic sapphire are a supremely durable material for watch crystals. Sapphire is extremely hard, rating a nine on the Mohs scale (which tops out at ten for diamond). Sapphire is more prone to shattering than mineral glass or acrylic, so keep this in mind for sports-oriented watches.

Some watches have numbers written around the outside of the dial. What purpose do they serve?

In many cases, these numbers are inscribed on a rotating ring called a bezel. For example, bezels on diver’s watches show elapsed time, which is essential for calculating the air remaining in a SCUBA tank.

Other popular bezel types include supplemental twelve-hour scales to track secondary time zones, and tachymeter markings, which allow the wearer to quickly calculate speed or pounds of fuel burned based on elapsed time.

What’s the difference between a chronograph and a chronometer?

These two words are similar in spelling but have very different meanings.

A chronograph is simply a watch with a built-in stopwatch. In most cases, a couple of extra crowns flanking the standard winding crown control the stopwatch.

A chronometer is a mechanical watch movement meeting a high standard of accuracy set by a Swiss organization called contrôle officiel suisse des chronometers (abbreviated as COSC). Interestingly, though movements certified by COSC are held to a higher standard than standard mechanical watches, their accuracy still falls short of many quartz watches. For more information on chronometer certification, check out www.timezone.com/library/wbore/wbore631733384647656250.

Does the number of jewels in a watch determine its value?

The jewels used in the manufacture of today’s watch movements are synthetic and have no value as gemstones. Because they are more durable than metal, watchmakers use them to reduce friction between moving parts. A standard mechanical watch with an automatic movement uses 17 jewels. More complicated watches (such as those with chronograph functionality) use additional friction-reducing jewels.

Historically, a watch with more jewels tended to be of higher quality than one with fewer jewels (thus costing more), but that is not necessarily the case today. In fact, some manufacturers add
superfluous jewels in an effort to boost the marketability of their watches. As a result, it’s probably wise to avoid placing too much weight on the exact number of jewels in a mechanical movement, so long as it has at least 17. For more information on jewels in watches, see www.timezone.com/library/workbench/workbench0025.

Is hacking good or bad when it comes to watches?

A watch movement that hacks is one in which the second hand stops moving when you pull out the crown to set the time. Many inexpensive mechanical watches have non-hacking movements, which make them harder to set to the exact second. For most watch wearers, a hacking movement is helpful, though not essential.

Resources

Timezone: This site contains a vast amount of watch-related information, along with several brand-specific discussion forums.

Watch-u-seek forums: The forums at watch-u-seek (a commercial site) are lively and offer great information for the watch novice.

Top 20 List on the Poor Man’s Watch Forum . This guide provides images and descriptions to some of the best values in men’s watches (80% of the watches on the list cost under $500).

On the other hand, you may be able to increase your memory, replace your video card and add a large hard drive for $275, giving your current machine new life for a modest outlay of cash. If you increase your budget to $400, you may be able to upgrade your computer’s processor too.

Can I upgrade it myself?
Maybe. If you have some experience working with electronic or computer components, you might find these upgrades relatively simple. If you are apprehensive about working inside your computer’s case, it’s probably safer and less stressful to pay a computer technician to perform the procedures.
If you decide to try it yourself, avoid static electricity at all costs. An errant static zap can render your computer inoperable. To be safe, buy an anti-static bracelet for a few dollars. This device keeps your body from discharging static electricity into your computer’s sensitive components.

Upgrade Guide: Random Access Memory (RAM)
Introduction
RAM is the temporary holding area in which your computer programs run. If there is too little RAM, the computer may slow to a crawl when running complex programs. Under Windows XP, aim for one gigabyte (1GB) of RAM. With Windows Vista, two gigabytes (2GB) will offer optimal performance.

How much will it cost?
Memory is inexpensive, often costing less than $100 for 1GB of RAM.

What should I know before I upgrade?
Use a commercial website like www.crucial.com to determine the exact kind of memory you need for your computer model. Also, read your owners manual to find the number and location of open memory slots.

The Bottom Line
RAM is probably the easiest upgrade to perform at home. You just open the case, and snap it into place. The only tricky part is making sure that the RAM you buy is compatible with your computer.

Upgrade Guide: Video Card
Introduction
A good video card (sometimes called a graphics card) can make games look more lifelike and can improve the speed of scrolling within a document. In addition, some visual effects in Microsoft’s Windows Vista operating system require a powerful graphics card.

How much will it cost?
Unless your computer was well-equipped to begin with, you should be able to upgrade to your video card for $200 or less.

What should I know before I upgrade?
Check your owner’s manual to see the type of graphics card slot you have in your computer. New machines have a PCI-Express (PCIe) slot, while older machines have an AGP slot. You should also determine whether your computer’s screen requires an analog (VGA) or digital (DVI-D) connection. If you’re lucky, your graphics cards will have both types of inputs, giving you flexibility to work with either analog or digital signals.

If you have two connections on your video card and sufficient desk space, try attaching two monitors at once. You can keep an email program and a stock ticker always visible on the secondary monitor, while you perform your daily work on the primary monitor.

The Bottom Line
While typical home users will notice some improvements with a new graphics card, computer gamers will gain the most from an upgrade.

Upgrade Guide: Hard Drive
Introduction
A computer’s hard drive can be improved in two ways—speed and capacity—each of which will benefit a typical home user.

How much will it cost?
A large, fast internal hard drive can be purchased for $75 to $150.

What should I know before I upgrade?
Determine whether your computer’s current hard drive uses the older IDE (sometimes called parallel ATA) interface, or the newer serial ATA (SATA) interface. If your computer has both interfaces, it’s probably better to buy an SATA drive, as it will be easier to install. If you plan to replace your current drive with an upgraded one, use hard drive cloning software (e.g., Norton Ghost) to make sure all of your current programs and documents are transferred to the new drive.

The Bottom Line
The extra storage space and speed of a new hard drive can make it a worthwhile investment. In many cases, you can even keep the old drive in your computer as a storage area for your documents, photos, music and videos.

Upgrade Guide: Processor
Introduction
The processor, or central processing unit (CPU), acts as the brain of your computer and determines your machine’s speed more than any other component. Unfortunately, not all computers have upgradeable processors, but for the ones that do, it’s an option worth investigating.

How much will it cost?
Processor upgrades vary in cost from $75 to over $500. The cost of a particular processor often drops precipitously after being on the market for a couple of years, making an upgrade a relative bargain.

What should I know before I upgrade?
Check your owner’s manual to determine whether your computer can be upgraded with a new processor. Unless you’re very good with computers, you’ll probably want to leave this one to a professional.

Bottom Line
A processor upgrade can give your old computer a significant boost in speed, but make sure not to overspend, as this can be a costly upgrade.

If you always get your cup at a coffee shop, you may have no need for coffee gadgets, but if you ever make coffee at home, rest assured that a gadget or two could probably improve your results. This Tech Talk issue will provide tips on getting the most from your homemade coffee.

It all starts with high-quality coffee beans. Coffee bean selection has as much of an impact on a cup of coffee as choice of grape has on a glass of wine. You’ll need to consider two dimensions when selecting coffee beans: type and roast.

Coffee Bean Type

Try to pick beans from the Arabica species of coffee, which are more aromatic and flavorful than the cheaper Robusta beans. Coffee tastes freshest immediately after grinding, so it’s best to buy whole beans and grind them at home.

Coffee Bean Roast

The length of time coffee is roasted plays an important role in its taste. Longer roasting times yielding darker beans and a smokier flavor. Roasts range from a light “cinnamon” roast, to a medium “city” roast, to the dark roasts: Italian, French and Vienna. Your personal taste will play a great role in which roast style you should select. For help in picking a roast, see www.wholelattelove.com/articles/coffee_roasting.cfm (an informational article from a commercial site).

If you’re after the freshest possible cup of coffee, you might consider roasting beans at home. Home coffee roasters range in price from less than $100 to over $600, and unroasted “green” beans cost significantly less than roasted beans (typically 40% to 50% less). For a comparative table of home roasting machines prepared by Internet retailer Sweet Maria’s, see www.sweetmarias.com/roastercomparisonchart.html.

Step Three: Grinding Coffee Beans

There are two basic types of coffee grinders: blade and burr. A blade grinder uses a multi-pronged blade similar to the one found in a blender to pulverize coffee. The coarseness of the grind is determined by the amount of time the beans stay in the grinder, making it tricky to get the coffee to the optimal coarseness (e.g. a medium grind for automatic drip and fine for espresso). A burr grinder, in contrast, uses a mechanism similar to that found in a pepper mill to grind coffee to a uniform size. A decent burr grinder should be near the top of a home coffee brewer’s gadget priority list.

Step Four:Brewing Coffee

Without being properly brewed, coffee roasted and ground to perfection will still produce a mediocre cup. Fortunately, many home brewing methods give good results. Here are a few:

 French Press

A French press, also known as a press pot, is a non-electric brewing method. You steep coarsely ground coffee in hot water for about four minutes, then use a perforated plunger to separate the coffee grounds from the brewed coffee. A small amount of ground coffee may end up your final cup. For additional information on the French press process, see www.wholelattelove.com/articles/french_presses.cfm (an informational article from a commercial site).

The Aeropress

The Aeropress, unique among coffee makers, uses a syringe-like system to brew coffee under pressure. Unlike the French press method, a paper filter keeps grounds out of the finished cup. After hot water is added, the Aeropress takes just 30 seconds to brew. For a normal American cup of coffee, simply dilute Aeropress coffee with an equal amount of hot water. The Aeropress has generated lively discussion over at the Coffee Geek Web site, compiling 100 pages of comments and user reviews.

 Single Serve Coffee Makers

These machines brew a cup of coffee from self-contained pods, discs, or cups, eliminating the need for careful measuring or fiddling with filters. For convenience and time-to-first-cup, they are hard to beat. The finished product can taste good, though mass-market pods are likely to produce mediocre results. Check out the Single Serve Coffee site for reviews of single serve machines and coffee pods.

Espresso Machines:

These electric machines force pressurized water through finely ground coffee, creating a small, potent cup. Specialty coffee drinks like cappuccino, café mocha, latte, café au lait, and machiatto all begin with espresso. Prices range from under $50 for basic models to over $1000 for a super automatic, which magically turns your whole coffee beans into a steaming shot of espresso. Espresso coffee maker owners enjoy the flexibility their machines offer: after all an espresso shot diluted with water makes a fine cup of American style coffee (an Americano), but no amount of tinkering can force an automatic drip coffee maker to produce an espresso shot.

Automatic Drip:

The automatic drip coffee maker is nearly ubiquitous in U.S. kitchens, but not all drip coffeemakers will give optimal results. Here are a few things to look for when shopping for a drip brewer:

Showerhead-style water dispersion: If the hot brewing water pours over the grounds from many points like a showerhead, your coffee may taste better than if it comes from a single central point.

Correct brewing temperature: According to the National Coffee Association, coffee should be brewed at a temperature between 195 and 205 degrees Fahrenheit. If your coffee maker does not get the water to the correct temperature, your results will suffer.

Insulated carafe: Insulated carafes keep your coffee warm without negatively affecting the taste like an electric burner. If your coffee maker has a hot plate, transfer the coffee from the included glass carafe to an insulated container immediately following brewing.

Some of these coffee maker characteristics can’t be determined without taking a machine home and using it. Fortunately, Internet coffee sites like Coffee Geek can help you research the features of different models.

Resources

Coffee Geek: reviews and discussion of coffee and coffee makers

Single Serve Coffee: reviews and discussion of coffee pods, discs, cups, and their corresponding machines.

Sweet Maria’s Home Roasting Basics provides a simple introduction to roasting beans.

Laptop computers are commonly grouped into four classifications: ultraportable, thin and light, mainstream, and desktop replacement. Ultraportables, the tiniest of these options, pack a lot of power into a small package. If a laptop weighs less than four pounds and has a 12” or smaller screen, it’s considered ultraportable.

Why would you consider an ultraportable? If you’re a frequent business traveler, a college student or anyone who always likes to have a computer nearby, an ultraportable may be a great solution. You can connect using WiFi to the Internet at the Hinsdale Public Library, take notes in class, watch a movie on a plane, or compose a letter while taking the Metra to Union Station; many of these activities may be too much of a hassle with a seven-pound laptop.

It’s true that manufacturers have to make compromises in order to make notebook computers small and light. For example, some computer manufacturers install less power-hungry processors in order to reduce the size and weight of the battery, one of the heaviest parts of a laptop computer. They also frequently use less powerful graphics systems and omit onboard DVD drives in order to shave ounces and inches off of the final product.

The bottom line: if you’re hoping to play the latest 3-D games or run programs which would tax a recent desktop computer, then look elsewhere. But if you’re calculating spreadsheets, writing letters, watching movies, listening to MP3 files or browsing the Internet, these miniature computers have more than enough power.

What features of ultraportable laptops are important for top performance?

Ultraportable laptop buyers seeking the best possible performance should look for the following characteristics:

Processor: The brains of the computer—if a dual-core processor is available, go for it. They are significantly faster than their single-core counterparts.

Graphics: Ultraportable computers with a dedicated (sometimes called discrete) video card are rare, but those which have this feature will perform better on graphics-intensive programs.

Memory: Bite the bullet and spring for one gigabyte of system memory and consider getting two gigabytes if you plan to run Microsoft’s Windows Vista operating system.

Hard Drive: The hard drive has a surprisingly large impact on a machine’s responsiveness. Read the system’s specifications to learn the laptop’s hard drive speed, which is measured in rotations per minute (RPM). If you have the option to get a 7200 RPM drive, you’ll achieve increased performance as compared to 5400 RPM or 4200 RPM drives. Computers which use 2.5-inch notebook drives perform better than those which use the smaller 1.8-inch hard drives.

What kind of screen can I expect on an ultraportable?

Typical ultraportable laptop computers have screens measuring 12.1 inches on the diagonal, but some screens may be smaller. Laptops with 13-inch or larger screens are not considered ultraportable.

In terms of screen resolution, 1280 x 800 pixels is common, but you may also find ultraportables with slightly higher or slightly lower resolution. Many ultraportable laptops (such as the popular 1280 x 800 models) have widescreen aspect ratios, meaning their rectangular shape is shorter and wider than a traditional monitor, which is closer in shape to a square. Widescreen laptops are great for watching widescreen video content like movies.

The combination of screen size and resolution has a major impact on usability. If the screen has a large number of pixels in a small space, normal text can be difficult to read, though DVD movies will look very crisp. Only you will be able to tell if a screen meets your particular needs.

What about wireless Internet?

Wireless Internet use is one of the best reasons to buy this type of device, as these computers are so easy to carry everywhere, and they tend to have great wireless Internet capabilities. Built-in 802.11 wireless networking is commonplace, though it may cost extra in some models. Wired network connections (e.g., Ethernet) are standard equipment.

What kind of battery life can I expect?

It depends. Ultraportable laptop computers frequently come with a small low-profile battery which permits two to four hours of use. Enhanced-capacity batteries can stretch this to eight hours in some cases, a remarkable feat. On the negative side, these batteries add several ounces of weight and sometimes protrude inelegantly from the computer.

Are the keyboards on ultraportables comfortable?

Some manufacturers take more care than others when it comes to keyboards. For example, the Lenovo (formerly IBM) ThinkPad line of laptop computers are famous for their outstanding keyboards. In contrast, some manufacturers cut corners on their keyboards to reduce size and weight (such as making certain keys half-size). If you’re an accomplished touch-typist, try to audition keyboards at length before purchase. Also, check out laptop reviews in magazines and on the Internet, as they generally discuss keyboard layout and feel.

What accessories should I buy with my laptop?

There are no universal answers to this question, but here are a few accessories to consider:

An extra battery: it may be wise to buy a spare battery. Keep the standard one for your commute, and pick up an additional high-capacity one for extended sessions away from a power outlet.

An extra power adapter: If you use your computer both at home and at work, consider buying an extra power adapter to leave at the office, so that you can run the laptop from the outlet at your desk and top off the computer’s battery before heading home.

A protective sleeve: Since these computers are so tiny, you may be tempted to casually toss it sans-protection into your briefcase or bag. Resist this urge, and buy a padded sleeve to protect your investment. Companies like WaterField produce sleeves in an impressive array of sizes to accommodate nearly all laptop computer dimensions. If you plan to have two batteries, consider getting a larger sleeve which will accommodate either battery configuration, or buy a separate sleeve for each.

A small mouse: Laptop or travel computer mice are popular add-ons to portable computers. They offer greater comfort than built-in pointing devices, yet don’t take up much room in a bag.

Resources

www.notebookreview.com: This site’s comprehensive notebook database allow s you to see models with specific characteristics (e.g., all notebooks with 12.1 -inch screens that weight less than three pounds and have an Intel Core Duo processor). There’s also a lively discussion forum where you can ask the experts on the board which notebook is right for you r needs.

www.notebookforums.com: Another site containing active discussion forums on laptop computers.

www.notebookcheck.net: A useful site which compiles links to reviews from numerous sources and summarizes them into an overall score.

The recent holiday gift-giving season has spawned many first-time digital camera owners. Digital cameras, which capture images on memory cards instead of film, have grown in popularity over the past few years (see Tech Talk: Vol. 1, No. 3). Featuring many of the same controls as film cameras, bright LCD screens which allow users to preview pictures before taking them, and physically small, yet capacious memory cards, these cameras make it easier than ever to quickly amass a large number of photographs.

Unlike film cameras, where your decisions begin and end with selecting a photofinisher, digital photography gives you more control over the output. You get to choose which of the images to keep, edit, and print, how you want to print them (at home or via a commercial service), and whether to share the images over the Internet with others. This series of choices can be daunting to a newcomer.

Tech Talk to the rescue. This issue will guide you through the steps necessary to get your pictures into final form. Once you learn the options available, you may find working with digital images to be more convenient than the traditional develop-and-print routine.

Using the cable which came with your camera (or, optionally, a memory card reader), copy the picture files to your computer. Fortunately, many digital cameras come with software which automatically copies new photos to your computer when it detects an attached camera.

Step Two: Organize your photos

If you are copying your photos from your camera manually, the simplest means of organizing photos is to keep them in separate folders on your computer according to event or date. For example, birthday party photos could be organized in any of these ways:

• \My Documents\My Pictures\Carla 12th Birthday\
• \My Documents\My Pictures\2006_0822\Carla Birthday\
• \My Documents\My Pictures\Family Photos\Carla\

This directory-based organization scheme can be effective if you are consistent in your naming conventions.

Another organizational technique relies on special software to organize all of your digital images. These programs let you assign descriptive words (called keywords) to photos to make them easier to find later. For example, if you religiously assign keywords (a process called tagging), you will easily find every photograph taken of Carla at grandma's house, or every photo with Fido in the frame.

Your camera's software may allow you to assign keywords. Alternatively, on Windows computers, programs like Picasa and Adobe Photoshop Elements are good bets for photo organization, as is Apple's excellent iPhoto for Macintosh computers. On Linux, F-Spot is popular.

Step Three: Edit your photos

Today's digital cameras are capable of taking pictures which look fine as is, but most images can benefit from a few minor tweaks on the computer. All of the image management tools mentioned in the previous example offer easy-to-use editing tools to enhance photos. With a bit of editing, you can significantly improve your photos.

For example, editing allows you to:

• Crop: Remove a distracting fire hydrant from the side of your photo or zoom in on your main subject to fill the frame.
• Enhance contrast: This is one of the easiest ways to improve a photograph. Simply click the "auto contrast" button and achieve a marked improvement in many cases.
• Straighten: Despite your best attempts to keep the camera parallel to the ground, your subject may be askew in the frame. The straighten tool lets you quickly fix this problem.
• Remove a color cast: If your photos look overly blue, green, or some other color, check to see if there is a "color temperature" control (often a horizontal slider). Simply move the control back and forth, and you may be able to find a setting which make the colors look more natural.
• Sharpen: You can sometimes make digital pictures look more crisp by using the sharpen tool. Don't overdo it, though. Photos with excessive sharpening have an unpleasantly harsh and etched look to them.

Don't be afraid to give basic digital photo editing a try. Most software packages for the general user make it easy to achieve impressive results.

Step Four: Print your photos

Here's where it gets interesting. You have a number of choices in turning your image from a digital file to a printed photograph. Each is capable of producing a finished product which looks just a good as a traditional photograph. The great thing about digital photos is that you can print only the really good ones; there's no need to print the rejects. Here are a few of your printing options:

• Print them at home: A inkjet printer can provide excellent results, but avoid bottom-of-the-line (sub $100) models if you seek photo quality output. If print longevity is a concern, pick an inkjet that uses pigment-based inks rather than dye-based inks. Finally, if you tend to print only 4 x 6 inch photos, a pint-sized "snapshot printer" may be a perfect choice.
• Use an online service to order prints for delivery: Online services like Shutterfly and Kodak EasyShare Gallery allow you to upload your photographs to their Web site. Once they are on the remote servers, you can select which pictures to have printed and mailed to you.
• Use an online service to order prints for local pickup: This is essentially the same process as in the preceding option, but with local pickup instead of delivery. National retailers such as Wal-mart, Walgreens, Costco, and Target offer this convenient service to their customers. In many cases, your photos will be ready for pickup within an hour of submission.
• Use an in-store kiosk to print photos: Many retailers have self-serve photofinishing machines which read your camera's memory cards. These machines can make prints in many sizes, or, in some cases, elaborate creations like greeting cards. Kiosks can be exceptionally convenient for spur-of-the-moment prints, provided you have your digital camera or memory card at hand.

What else can I do with my digital pictures?

Some people are content to leave their pictures in the digital realm and never commit them to paper. This doesn't have to mean that they have to stay hidden away in a dusty corner of your hard drive. Consider these possibilities:

• Email them to loved ones: Using a digital photo manager like Picasa, emailing is a piece of cake. Simply select the photos you want to send, press the email button, and enter the email addresses of your recipients. Picasa can even shrink the images so they take less time to download.
• Make them available online for others to see: Sites like Flickr and Fotki allow you to upload, tag, and share your photographs with friends, family, and the rest of the world. Commercial photo printing sites like Shutterfly and Kodak EasyShare Gallery provide some online sharing too.
• Display them with a digital picture frame: For a mere $75 to $300, you can buy a digital picture frame which displays your photos on a miniature flat-panel monitor. They often come with a tiny remote control to allow you to advance to the next picture or rotate the image 90 degrees if necessary. Higher-priced units have larger screens and are capable of displaying more detail than the inexpensive frames. Please note: Some models may require a monthly subscription fee and Internet access, while others simply allow you to insert your memory card into a slot. Read the fine print to see how you load your pictures.

Final Thoughts

The world of digital photography can be a bit daunting to the neophyte. Thankfully, camera manufacturers and software companies have gone out of their way to make the process easy for the average person. With free tools like Picasa, anyone with basic computer skills can organize, edit, and print photos with results that are every bit as good as film prints from the local drugstore. In addition, the ability to easily email and share photos online makes it easier than ever to keep friends and family in the loop.

Technical clothing, sometimes called high-performance clothing, is designed to keep the wearer dry and at a comfortable temperature (a characteristic known as thermoregulation) regardless of weather conditions.

To illustrate the benefits of technical clothing, consider the standard cotton t-shirt worn practically as a Saturday uniform in some areas. It feels great against the skin when you put it on, but as soon as it becomes damp with perspiration or rain and is allowed to cool (particularly in the shade), it becomes clammy and uncomfortable. In comparison, a shirt made from a synthetic fabric like polyester or nylon will wick moisture away from the skin to the surface of the fabric where it evaporates, keeping the wearer dry and comfortable.

Technical clothing works best when worn in layers. Layering simply means to wear a number of garments in place of a single heavy garment. This strategy provides great flexibility, as layers can be added or removed to accommodate a wide range of temperatures. In contrast, a heavy coat is really comfortable only when the temperature is very cold. Layering is used for both the upper and lower body, so don’t neglect your legs. Generally speaking, a layering system has three components: a base layer, an insulating layer, and an outer layer, though you may be able to skip one or two, depending on the weather.

1) Base layer

Description: This layer lies directly against the skin, where it wicks moisture to the surface of the fabric. In many cases, the base layer hugs the body to facilitate the wicking process. Lighter-weight fabrics are perfect for cool days when the wearer is highly active, while heavier base layers work best on very cold days when the wearer is still (such as watching a December football game in Green Bay, Wisconsin).

 Materials: Synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon are popular base layers due to their wicking abilities, but over the last several years, Merino wool products have impressed the experts. Wool, unlike its synthetic counterparts, remains warm against the skin when wet (though it does take a long time to dry). Unlike traditional wool, the extremely fine fibers of Merino wool do not feel itchy against the skin.

 2) Insulating layer

Description: Most of the warmth in a layering system comes from this garment, which can come in the form of a sweater, pullover, vest, or jacket. If the temperature outside is mild, you may skip the insulating layer altogether, and for slightly colder temperatures, an insulating vest may do the trick, but in truly cold conditions, an insulated jacket or pullover is best.

 Materials: The most popular insulating layer material these days is synthetic fleece. This fuzzy and lightweight polyester material was invented over 25 years ago by Massachusetts-based Malden Mills, and has undergone considerable refinement over the years.

 If you think your fleece jacket may occasionally act as an outer layer, consider one made with a wind-resistant fleece fabric. These products incorporate an additional breeze-blocking membrane, making them perfect for spring or fall walks along the lake.

For cold conditions, consider insulating materials like goose down and high-loft polyester fiber. Each is very warm, but down can't be beat for warmth-to-weight ratio. However, unlike unlike polyester insulation, down loses most of its insulating value when wet.

 Hard Shell: Hard shells excel at blocking exterior wind and water, while allowing perspiration to escape through the fabric as vapor. If heavy precipitation is in the forecast, a hard shell is the best choice. Unfortunately, even the most breathable of hard shells can become uncomfortable in cold weather when perspiration condenses on the inner surface of the jacket. Some manufacturers add a napped inner surface to minimize the clammy feel.

Hard Shell Materials:

Hard shells are made of two or three thin layers of material laminated together, one of which is a semi-permeable membrane. Perhaps the best-known hard shell laminate is Gore-Tex®, but a number of competitors have emerged, such as, eVentT, ConduitT, and HyVentT. Whether one laminate brand is more effective than any other is debated at length by outdoor enthusiasts.

Soft Shell: Soft shells, in contrast, while exceptionally breathable, are unable to repel heavy rains. Water beads on the surface of soft shells in light showers, but saturates the fabric in a downpour. Unless you live in an area where it rains every day, a soft shell is a great choice. They are more comfortable to wear and make less of a rustling noise as you walk than hard shells, and in some cases, are warm enough to eliminate the need for an insulating layer.

Soft Shell Materials:

For information on soft shell fabric choices, read Soft Shells: We love 'em! by outdoor retailer The Alpineer. There are many high-tech soft shell fabrics available, and The Alpineer provides a great summary of the soft shell materials available and their suitability for different situations.

 
What should I look for when buying technical clothing?

• Fit:  Make sure the garment is fit appropriate for its use. Don’t buy a form-fitting hard shell for winter (no room for layering) or a too-baggy base layer (perspiration can’t wick efficiently if your base layer isn’t close to the skin).

•  Ventilation: If you will be active while wearing the garment, make sure the item’s fabric breathes well (e.g., is a soft shell) or that it can zip open to allow a breeze to enter. Specifically, look for “pit zips” (see Figure 2) near the underarm of jackets, or outer seam zips on pants, each of which facilitates air movement.

•  Waterproof zippers and sealed seams: If a shell garment is designed to be waterproof, the manufacturer should take precautions to keep water from entering through zippers or seams.

•  Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coating: Many technical insulating layers and soft shells gain their water resistance through DWR, a fabric coating which causes water to bead on the surface.

 
Resources

• Outdoor Clothing & Footwear Recommendations by Mark Verber. An outdoor enthusiast’s specific recommendations for layering technical clothing.

Game consoles play video games stored on optical discs using your television. You can drive monster trucks, rescue princesses, attack goblins, throw 65-yard passes, and search for buried treasure from the comfort of your sofa.

It figures to be a big December for consoles, as the Big Three game system manufacturers — Nintendo, Sony and Microsoft — will be battling for a share of the seventh-generation game console market (the seminal 1972 game Pong was considered a first-generation system). As compared to their predecessors, these state-of-the-art game systems promise improved controls, more vivid graphics, and enhanced multimedia capabilities. The PS3 and the Wii are hogging most of the headlines this holiday season, but it would be a mistake to overlook the year-old Xbox 360, which still has much to offer.

Game consoles have traditionally cost between $200 and $300 at the time of launch, but retail prices for seventh-generation consoles have risen. Nintendo’s Wii is a relative bargain at $249; you can buy two Wiis for the price of the cheapest Sony PlayStation 3 (PS3), which rings up at a wallet-emptying $499 (an upgraded model does even more damage at $599). The Microsoft Xbox 360 takes the middle ground, with the base model priced at $299, and an enhanced unit at $399.

Which is the best game console?

Each of the three consoles has unique attributes which could make it the best choice for a specific gamer. Read this section to decide if one is right for you:

Nintendo Wii

The Wii (pronounced “we”) follows up Nintendo’s 2001 Game Cube console. The Wii’s greatest strength is its unique control system. Using motion sensor technology, it allows games to be controlled using natural movements rather than a joystick. For example, a player might swing the remote control like a racket to return a serve in a tennis game.

What the Wii offers in innovative control, it lacks in raw processing power. While reputedly twice as powerful as its predecessor, the Wii is no match for the Xbox 360 or the PS3, both of which are both capable of sending lifelike high-definition signals to compatible TV sets. Some Wii games are widescreen, but none are truly high-definition. If you require top-notch graphics — move along, there’s nothing to see here.

But Nintendo argues that carefully crafted games with intuitive controllers are more fun than mediocre games with razor-sharp graphics. Nintendo has some reason to trust their gameplay-trumps-graphics instinct. Nintendo’s DS handheld system is innovatively controlled, but lacks the potent graphics of its rival, the Sony PlayStation Portable. Despite its obvious power deficit, the Nintendo system has reportedly outsold the PlayStation portable by 17% worldwide. Nintendo’s surefire game franchises Zelda and Mario are likely to prompt many gamers to buy the Wii system.

Microsoft Xbox 360

Unlike the Wii and the PS3, Microsoft’s Xbox 360 was available for last year’s holiday season. In fact, six million Xbox 360s have been sold already, giving Microsoft a significant head start in the console race. This wouldn’t matter much if the Xbox 360’s processor had become obsolete over the past year, but this is not the case.

Many game industry pundits give the power edge to the Sony PlayStation 3 over the Xbox 360, but the disparity is nowhere near as large as the horsepower advantage the Xbox 360 enjoys compared to the Wii.

Microsoft’s subscription-based online game service called Xbox Live allows gamers to play their friends over the Internet, all the while verbally taunting them over a headset (standard equipment with the premium model). The Halo series of games convinced many gamers to buy the original Xbox, and Microsoft is hoping Halo 3 will spur sales of the 360 in 2007. But for this holiday season, Gears of War is the combat game to watch.

While game playing is the primary use for the 360, perhaps the most intriguing features are video-based. It can serve up high-definition television and movie content from a local Windows XP Media Center Edition computer, from the Xbox Live Internet storefront, or from an optional $200 HD-DVD player. This inroad to the living room could be significant, as it provides HDTV owners a multi-dimensional source of high-definition material.

Sony PlayStation 3

When Sony executives go to bed at night on Christmas Eve, instead of having visions of sugarplums, they will probably dream of the PS3 matching the success of its blockbuster predecessor, the PlayStation 2 (PS2). The PS2 was by far the best-selling console of the sixth generation, selling more than four times the number of game machines as the Microsoft Xbox. PS2 sales were propelled by game series like Grand Theft Auto, Final Fantasy, Metal Gear Solid, and Guitar Hero , but Microsoft has been lobbying to get many of these titles onto the 360 too. Sony has made the PS3 system backwards-compatible with a large majority of PS2 games, so fans of the PlayStation brand will not have to leave their investment in games behind.

It’s not all about the past, though. The PS3 has power to spare in displaying high-resolution graphics. Game titles available this holiday season like Resitance: Fall of Man, are visually impressive, but show only a fraction of what the PS3 can deliver. Only time will tell if developers can fully harness the system’s potent processor.

Aside from graphics power, the main feature that distinguishes the PlayStation 3 is its built-in Blu-ray drive. Blu-ray is battling HD-DVD for supremacy in the next-generation high-definition DVD format wars. Currently, the only way to watch Blu-ray movies is to spend about $1000 on a stand alone player. In the realm of Blu-ray players, $500 is a relative bargain.

The Bottom Line

The Nintendo Wii is best for:

• Game players with a limited budget.
• Devotees of the Zelda and Mario games.
• First-time gamers who will embrace the intuitive control system.
• Jaded gamers looking for something a little different.
• Players more interested in engrossing game play than lifelike graphics.

The Microsoft Xbox 360 is best for:

• Addicts of popular Xbox games, like the Halo series.
• Owners of a Windows Media Center Edition computer who want to stream video and music to their home theater system.
• People who want to play games with high-resolution graphics but don’t want to take out a second mortgage for the privilege.
• People who enjoy games with an online emphasis.

The Sony PlayStation 3 is best for:

• Gamers seeking the ultimate graphics performance and don’t mind paying handsomely for it.
• People looking for a relatively inexpensive player for movies in the high-definition Blu-ray format.
• Owners of previous PlayStation or PS2 consoles.

There are a couple of reasons why you might want another pair of headphones (sometimes called 'phones or cans). First, the sound quality of stock headphones suffers in comparison with many aftermarket models. In addition, you may find that aftermarket headphones may provide a more comfortable fit than the factory pair.

Some buyers spend upwards of $300 for a premium pair of ’phones, but with research and careful shopping, you can get a nice set for as little as $15. While spending a lot of money on headphones will probably not transform your life, you may be surprised at how much more musical detail you can discern when listening through a good set of cans.

What different types of headphones are available?

A wide array of portable headphone configurations have emerged over the past two decades. Within each type, you are likely to find a few models which improve upon the headphones that came with your portable stereo. The first step to finding a good pair of portable headphones is deciding which variety you prefer; the major options are detailed in this section.

• Earbuds: Perhaps the most common form of portable headphones today, earbuds are roughly the size of a dime and fit into the external part of the ear.
  Earbuds are capable of producing good sound, but their bass can be lacking in some cases. Some users find that achieving a good fit can be difficult. In addition, vigorous exercise can dislodge earbuds, which are frequently held in place only by friction. Still, their small size makes them convenient and their relatively low price puts them within reach of most consumers.
• Over the head: Headphones with an over-the-head band are the most traditional design. This tried-and-true configuration allows for comfortable support of larger speaker drivers than other styles, as the effects of gravity are counterbalanced by the headband. There are two main problems with this style. First, the headband can destroy a carefully coiffed hairdo, and second, even models which fold are still fairly cumbersome compared to other options.
• Behind the head: This type of headphones, popularized by Sony’s “Street Style” product line, moves the band from the top to the back of the head, thus avoiding the hair-mussing threat. Though there are exceptions, purists sometimes scoff at behind-the-head earphones, which they view as focusing more on style than sound quality.
• Ear clips: These headphones are held in place by clips which wrap behind each ear. Often using similar drivers to over-the-head models, this style of headphones is capable of excellent sound quality. They are also a good bet for exercise, as the clips keep the speaker drivers securely in place. The main problem with ear clips is comfort. Some users, particularly eyeglasses wearers, can’t get used to the retaining clips.
• Noise-Canceling Headphones : Unlike most of the other entries in this list, “noise canceling” refers to a technology rather than an earphone style. Tiny microphones mounted on each earpiece pick up external noise, and circuitry within the headphones attempts to cancel out these external sounds by generating an acoustically opposing signal. This technology is not a solution for all types of noise, though. It works best when removing constant, low-pitched, droning sounds (such as passenger jet engine noise) rather than transient sounds (like human speech). These headphones are bulkier than other types of portable ’phones in order to accommodate the electronic sound processing circuitry and its attendant batteries. Still, frequent air, rail, or bus travelers may find the noise reduction benefits of these ’phones to be worth the size penalty.
  
• Canalphones: Sometimes called “in-ear monitors,” canalphones act like earplugs with tiny speakers embedded inside. They do a great job of blocking nearly all external noise, making them a good alternative to noise-canceling headphones on planes, trains and buses. In fact, they can be a little too effective in blocking noise to use while walking or jogging on busy streets. In addition to their isolating qualities, high-end canalphones offer arguably the best sound reproduction of all the portable headphone types.
  
  There are two downsides to canalphones. First, people who find earplugs uncomfortable will probably not tolerate canalphones well. Second, a good pair of in-ear monitors can be significantly more costly than other portable headphone choices. But if you’re serious about getting the most from your portable audio experience, you owe it to yourself to audition a pair of canalphones.
  

Is there anything else I can do to improve the sound quality of my portable stereo?

Assuming you’ve already upgraded your headphones and have some money to spare, you might consider getting an external headphone amplifier. A battery-powered external amplifier eliminates the compromises inherent in the electronics of portable music devices and allows your headphones to really sing. If your player has one, use the line-out connection rather than the headphone jack. The sound will be cleaner, as you’ll be bypassing the internal amplifier completely.

The downsides to headphone amplifiers are obvious. First, they can be pricey, costing at least $50 for a decent homemade amp on eBay (commercial models are often over $150). Perhaps more significantly, headphone amps add an extra box and cable to your portable music system. Except for the very smallest units, amps aren’t really suitable for use while exercising. They are better used while stationary.

There are so many choices. How do I know what kind to try?

First, determine your main objectives for upgrading your headphones, and then do some research to discover which types and models best meet your needs. For example, if you’re looking for a good set of ’phones to use while running on city streets, you might audition some ear clip models or over-the-head models which will keep the headphones in place without blocking external sound completely. Use the sites listed in the resources section to aid in your research.

Resources

• Head-fi.org headphones forum : Perhaps the best single source of headphone information on the net, this lively discussion group debates the merits of specific headphone models 365 days a year. They also have a good forum for headphone amplifiers.
• Headwize: Another site featuring discussion forums on headphones and amplifiers. Their series of articles ( http://headwize.com/articles/index.htm ) on headphones
  is informative.
• Headroom : An online retailer of headphones and amps, Headroom has surprisingly candid reviews of the models they sell. The headphone neophyte can learn a lot by reading the material on this Web site.

If you have ever been annoyed by tiresome radio personalities or frustrated by the need to juggle several CDs to find a specific song while driving, you may be surprised how easy it can be to enable your car to play your iPod audio. Solutions exist for nearly every budget and car stereo. Keep in mind that some of the techniques described below will work with other brands of MP3 players besides the Apple iPod.

Automobile manufacturers have begun to recognize the growing consumer demand in this area. Ford, Mazda and General Motors have announced broad support for the iPod by offering car stereo integration in 70% of their combined 2007 models.

Even if your car is not brand new, it may still have some built-in iPod support. If it does, consider yourself lucky, as you’ll be able to enjoy great sound quality without spending much additional money. There are two levels of iPod connectivity which your factory car stereo might provide:

• iPod dock support :
  A dock connection gives the best possible sound quality and may permit you to change tracks or artists using your car stereo controls. In some cases, you’ll even be able to leave your iPod connected to the car stereo in an inconspicuous location like the glove compartment, making it less of a target for theft. A dock connection usually provides power, ensuring that your iPod’s battery won’t die midway through your road trip to Cleveland.
• Auxiliary input support : The second form of factory stereo support is via an auxiliary input connection. This usually appears as a small round jack on the front of your stereo labeled “Aux.” or “Aux. In.” All you will need to get connected is a 1/8 " to 1/8 " stereo mini-plug cable, which goes between the iPod’s headphone jack and the stereo’s auxiliary input jack. Unlike the more advanced dock connection described previously, you’ll need to use the iPod’s controls to navigate your music library.
  

Other connection options

What if your factory stereo doesn’t offer any form of direct iPod support? Fear not; you still can take your iPod’s music library on the road. Some are do-it-yourself (DIY), while others usually require professional installation.

DIY iPod connection options

There are a couple of ways you can connect an iPod to your stereo without major surgery. While these options don’t offer CD-quality sound, they are simple to implement and can be moved from car to car, making them ideal for use in rental cars. As with an auxiliary input connection, these options rely on your iPod to control the music.

• DIY option 1: FM transmitter. An FM transmitter is a small device which connects to your iPod and broadcasts to an unused FM station on your car stereo. They frequently cost between $25 and $90, depending on additional features like an integrated mount or battery charger. Sound quality is usually adequate, but may suffer in urban areas where there is little space between stations on the FM dial. Still, where portability is imperative, an FM transmitter may be your best bet.
• DIY option 2: cassette tape adapter. Cassette tape adapters look like ordinary audio tapes fused to a three-foot-long cable. Simply plug the cable into your iPod’s headphone jack, insert the cassette adapter into your stereo, and press play on both units. Obviously you’ll need a car stereo with a tape player, and these are increasingly difficult to find in new cars, having been phased out in favor of CD players. Sound quality is generally good from these adapters, which can be found for less than $25.

Professionally installed iPod connection options

In most cases, professional installation of an iPod connection system will result in better sound quality than either of the do-it-yourself choices. These options are more expensive and difficult to undo in many cases:

• Professionally installed option 1: RF Modulator. An RF modulator (sometimes called an FM modulator) is similar to an FM transmitter in that you receive the signal with your FM radio. The sound quality is superior to an FM transmitter, though, because the RF modulator is hard-wired to your car stereo’s antenna connection. This type of connection has been used for years as a relatively simple means of adding CD changers to car stereos, so the technology is mature and tested. Sound quality is good, but not quite CD-quality because of the limitations inherent to FM radio. Expect to pay $75 to $150 after installation for an RF Modulator interface.
• Professionally installed option 2: CD-changer interface. Crafty engineers have figured out a way to add additional connectivity to factory car stereos through their [often unused] CD changer wiring. Most interfaces of this type provide a connection via standard stereo input jacks, but a few allow connection via the iPod dock, which will permit basic iPod control using the factory stereo. Either way, the resulting sound quality is top-notch. A CD-changer interface of this type will probably cost $125-$250 after installation if one is available for your car.
• Professionally installed option 3: New car stereo receiver. Like factory car stereos, third party car stereo receivers (sometimes called head units) offer varying degrees of iPod support. Some receivers enable you to navigate the iPod’s menu structure using the car stereo, while others merely add an auxiliary input to the front face. An iPod-ready car stereo with installation will cost upwards of $300, depending on the receiver you select and the difficulty of installation in your vehicle.

What about iPod mounting choices?

Unless your stereo connection method provides a dock connection and a means for controlling it, you’ll need to mount your iPod within easy reach of the controls. Here are a few common mounting solutions:

• Windshield mounts connect to the windshield with a suction cup. The variety which use a clamp to secure the suction cup make an especially solid bond.
• Dashboard mounts use an adhesive material to attach the iPod to the dash. They can provide a good semi-permanent solution, but may leave some adhesive residue upon removal.
• Vent mounts use the car’s vents to hold the iPod. These will leave no trace of installation after removal but cannot be easily transferred from car to car. Some car vents may be incompatible with this type of mount.
• Cup holder mounts: If your car’s cup holder is conveniently located and frequently vacant, these mounts may be just the ticket. But be careful. If your cup holder is designed to accommodate today’s capacious fountain drinks, a cup holder mounts may not work well.
• Vehicle-specific mounts: At least one company, Pro.Fit, makes iPod mounts which are tailored for specific vehicles. While these are more costly than some of the other mounting options, they will make for a “clean” and secure installation.

Regardless of the mounting solution you choose, make sure you can return the product if it won’t work in your vehicle, which is possible due to the large variation in vehicle interiors. Also, keep in mind that many mounting solutions are incompatible with certain iPod cases.

Final thoughts

Few things can make a car trip more enjoyable than listening to a wide variety of personally chosen audio tracks which you can change at will. By bringing your iPod into the car, you can really enliven your commute or road trip.

Resources

• iLounge forum devoted to iPod-car connectivity
• C|net’s article entitled “iPod your car”
• Crutchfield’s guide to iPod connectivity (Crutchfield is a large electronics retailer.)

How much does it cost to sell an item on eBay?
It varies based on factors such as minimum bid, the ultimate selling price and various auction listing options. For an unofficial estimate of costs, try one of these free eBay fee calculators available on the Internet:

• eBCalc
• PM Photo’s eBay fee calculator

For example, an auction with a few typical listing options, an opening price of $50, and a final price of $100 would result in eBay fees of $7.11.

How do I begin selling on eBay?
The best thing to do is follow eBay’s official guide to the selling process entitled “Selling — Getting Started” . It covers the entire selling process and provides links to other official eBay documentation.

How can I become a better eBay seller?

Tip 1: Research the price of the item.
It is essential to learn the market value of your item. Part I of this series discusses using price comparison tools and recent auction results to assess the value of your merchandise. Unless your merchandise comes with extra accessories or is in unusually good condition, don’t expect to get more than the average “eBay” price for recently sold items of the same type.

Tip 2: Take a few high-quality pictures. Don’t skip this step.
High-quality pictures are critical to maximizing the price of your auction. Use a decent digital camera (any recent model will be fine) to take a few pictures of your item from various angles. Photographs destined for the Web don’t require high resolution. A 1024 x 768 pixel setting is more than adequate. Read your camera manual for instructions on setting the pixel resolution of your camera.

If possible, try to light the item with a diffuse light source (like from a north-facing window) rather than the camera’s built-in flash, which is often harsh and unforgiving.

Resist the urge to borrow product photos from a manufacturer’s or a retailer’s Web site for your auction. When people are buying an item on eBay, they are not just buying a generic make and model, they are buying a specific example of a product, and pictures provide the best possible documentation of its condition. That said, if your item is new and still shrink-wrapped, don’t break the seal to take a picture of the merchandise within; simply take a photo of the box showing its sealed condition.

But what if your item is not in good condition? How extensively should you photograph the flaws? If the item suffers from only one or two minor cosmetic flaws, take a wide shot of the item which shows its general appearance. Next, take a couple of close-up shots showing the specific flaws (perhaps with a finger pointing to the problem areas). This disclosure will enhance your trustworthiness, showing you are trying to be completely straightforward with the buyer.

If the item doesn’t look very good, it’s probably best to show only a single picture of the entire item, avoiding unnecessary visual attention to specific defects, though you should still discuss the problems in the description.

Tip 3: If possible, include original packaging materials and product manuals.
An item with an original box and manual will often garner a higher selling price than one without. This is especially true in consumer electronics categories like audio equipment.

Tip 4: Be honest in your description.
The more upfront and honest you are in describing an item’s condition, the more credible you will seem. Don’t attempt to describe a flawed item in deceptive or overly broad terms, hoping to gloss over any problems. Chances are, the buyer will become disgruntled and record a complaint against you with eBay.

Tip 5: Choose auction listing options carefully.
When you’re ready to list your item on eBay, you’ll be faced with a number of choices. Some of the critical ones are discussed below:

• Main category: Take care in choosing the category of your item, as this will determine whether a potential buyer can find your merchandise while browsing.
• Item title: Make sure your title contains as much information as possible within eBay’s 55-character limit. For example, to sell a new (with original box) 9-foot Walter jump rope, try the following title:
  New 9ft. Walter jump rope NIB 9 foot speed skipping
  
  The key is to provide alternate terms in the title. In the above example note the following:
  • New and NIB [“new in box”]
  • Jump, speed, and skipping [words found in other auction titles to describe jump ropes]
  • 9ft. and 9 foot [an abbreviation and the entire word]
  • By providing alternate words in the title, your auction can be found using many different search queries.
• Reserve auction: A reserve auction allows the user to select a secret “magic number” price which is hidden from the buyer. If the auction price fails to increase to that reserve price, then the seller has no obligation to sell the item. Auctions with reserve prices can be a turnoff to some bidders, so be careful when selecting this option.
  
• Auction length — 3, 7, or 10 days? 7 days seems to be the most common length of an auction. Try to time your 7-day auction to begin (and end) in the evening, so that potential buyers will be home and available to bid at the last minute.
  
• Minimum price: Set this price to the lowest amount you will feel comfortable accepting. If you set your minimum too high, you may get no bids whatsoever. If it’s set too low, you may regret the sale.
  
• Buy it now: The “buy it now” option allows a bidder to end the auction immediately by agreeing to your “buy it now” price. Buyers like this because it ensures a winning bid (though they may pay more), and sellers may find it attractive because they can get money more quickly (though they may get a lower price). If you select this option, set your “buy it now” price somewhere in the neighborhood of the market value for your merchandise.

Tip 6: Consider limiting forms of payment.
In order to protect against fraud, it’s a good idea to restrict the forms of payment that you’re willing to accept. Generally speaking, avoid cash, personal checks and wire transfers. U.S. Postal Money Orders and Cashier’s Checks are safer bets. You also may want to accept Paypal, a popular Web-based electronic payment service, as it allows you to receive payment via credit card without a merchant account (additional Paypal fees will apply).

Tip 7: Ship promptly.
Try to ship the item on the business day after you receive payment. If you are unable to ship on that day, you should indicate your shipping schedule within the auction description.

Tip 8: Keep the buyer informed.
There are few things more unsettling to eBay buyers than poor communication from the seller. Be sure to inform your buyer of payment receipt and item shipment via email.

Tip 9: Get professional help.
If you don’t have the time or the patience to auction items yourself, you can pay someone to do it for you on a consignment basis. Fees generally range between 30% and 40% of selling price. The Auctionbytes site has a list of companies which will sell your items on eBay via consignment. eBay can also help you find a seller in your area.

Final Thoughts
Making your first sale on eBay is exhilarating, especially if the bidding becomes heated in the closing moments of the auction. Listing an item does take time and effort, but it gets easier with each auction. If you’re strapped for time, consider having someone sell your items on eBay via consignment.

Founded in 1995, eBay (http://www.ebay.com) is by far the largest Internet auction site, boasting more than 100 million users. It’s become a worldwide phenomenon, radically expanding the marketplace for new and used items.

Sellers, once relegated to listing items in newspaper classifieds or unloading them at garage sales, can now use eBay to attract buyers from across the globe. Buyers also benefit. From the obscure to the nostalgic, eBay’s diverse and constantly changing collection of auctions offers something for everyone.

It’s true that sending money to someone across the country in return for promised merchandise is a gamble. Of course, buying from someone’s classified advertisement in the back of a magazine can be equally risky.

Fortunately, eBay has systems in place to offer buyers some protection against fraud, though they are not foolproof. By trusting your instincts and using the tips provided in this report, you will be more likely to buy a nice item for a fair price from a reliable seller.

How do I get started on eBay?

If you just want to take a look around eBay to see the types of things available on auctions you can do so anonymously. However, if you want to buy or sell, you will need to register for an account. To create an account, simply click on the “register” link near the top of eBay’s home page and follow the instructions. If you access eBay on a public computer, be sure to sign out when you’re finished (there’s a link near the top of the page). If you don’t, someone could place a bid using your account information.

How can I become a better eBay buyer?

Tip 1: Find out what the item is worth.

A price comparison tool like http://www.pricegrabber.com will allow you to check current prices for an item from several online vendors. Keep in mind that items purchased through eBay may not carry manufacturer’s warranties, so reduce your bid to account for this factor. But how can you find the price of an item no longer being produced? Simply check eBay for winning bid amounts of recent auctions: Click on the “advanced search” link found directly beneath the search box on the upper right-hand corner of the site. Type in the name and/or model number of the merchandise in the search box. Check the “completed listings only” box and press the search button. You may need to experiment with abbreviations or alternate spellings to find what you’re looking for. If the item has been sold in recent weeks, the final price of that auction will appear on the search results page. This can give you some idea of what the item is worth. Many variables contribute to a used item’s value, such as physical condition, whether original packaging is available, and whether the owner’s manual is included.

Tip 2: Decide in advance the maximum you’re willing to pay.

As the end of the auction draws near, your desire to win may overwhelm your common sense and cause you to bid more than you should. Set a realistic maximum and don’t exceed it in the heat of the moment.

Tip 3: Investigate the seller.

eBay has a feedback system which allows buyers and sellers to evaluate their degree of satisfaction with the other party. These feedback scores are displayed on the item page next to the seller’s user name. The number in parentheses is the total number of transactions which received positive feedback. The percentage of auctions receiving positive ratings is also shown. The system is flawed (e.g., it does not differentiate between feedback from buyers vs. sellers), but it can help to provide some idea of the trustworthiness of the other party.

Tip 4: Watch out for high shipping costs.

Some sellers try to increase their profits by charging an arm and a leg for shipping and handling. When comparing prices across auctions, make sure to factor in shipping costs before you place your bid. This information is usually provided in the auction description.

Tip 5: Don’t bid too early.

It’s usually best to bid relatively late in the game. If you bid too early, you risk running up the price. In fact, it’s wise to place your bid within the last couple of minutes of the auction’s closing. eBay’s system will automatically bid on your behalf up to the maximum you specify.

Tip 6: Consider using a “bid sniping” service.

Veteran eBay buyers will sometimes bid at the last possible moment to increase their chances of winning. This technique, called “bid sniping,” uses a commercial service to place a maximum bid on your behalf within four or five seconds of the auction’s end. It helps to win auctions because rival bidders don’t have enough time to increase their bid in response. Many companies provide auction sniping services for a fee, including http:/www.auctionsniper.com, http://www.bidnapper.com and http://www.auctionstealer.com. Incidentally, eBay has not spoken out against the use of auction sniping services.

Tip 7: Pay promptly.

As a buyer, you can enhance your reputation by paying promptly in the form specified in the auction (for example, a money order). It’s perfectly acceptable to ask if the seller will accept an alternate form of payment prior to bidding, but don't expect to have any luck after the fact. Final Thoughts If you haven’t tried eBay yet, you probably have no idea of the incredible diversity of items available. You can find everything from sewing patterns to construction tools to ostrich jerky and librarian action figures. Good buys abound for the savvy bidder.

Resources

• Collier, Marsha. eBay for dummies (004.678 COL)
• Collier, Marsha. eBay Bargain Shopping for Dummies (004.678 EBAY)
• Griffith, Jim. The Official eBay Bible (004.678 EBAY)
• Karp, David A. eBay Hacks (004.678 KAR)

Handheld gaming systems are video games that fit in the palm of your hand—they are designed to allow you to get a video game fix at the doctor’s office, on a plane ride, or at grandma’s house without lugging along the TV.

Of course, the idea of portable video games is nothing new. In the 1970s, handheld electronic games like Mattel’s Football were very popular, but these systems were one-trick ponies, allowing the user to play only a single game.

Nintendo’s Game Boy console, released in 1989, popularized the concept of interchangeable games in a portable console. Despite black-and-white, low-resolution graphics, the Game Boy was a smash hit, especially among the young.

Today’s handhelds have beautiful color displays, stereo sound, and, most importantly, a wide variety of games from which to choose. The battle for on-the-go entertainment devices is fierce, with Apple’s iPod digital audio players leading the charge. But handheld gaming systems provide something that most other handheld electronics can’t offer—an experience both immersive and interactive.

Two portable game consoles control the marketplace: Nintendo’s DS and Sony’s PlayStation Portable (PSP).

So which is better, the Nintendo DS or the Sony PSP?

Both systems are well-designed and have powerful graphics capabilities, so it is hard to go wrong with either. Based on the following characteristics, you may be able to decide which one will work best for you.

Nintendo DS

Positives

• Many highly regarded games
• Very good battery life (roughly 8 hours)
• Wireless multiplayer capabilities
• Dual screen (source of the DS name) design is unique. In addition, the lower display is touch-sensitive, allowing for flexibility in control.
• Since games are stored on cartridges, they start up quickly
• Clamshell design case closes to protect screens from scratches

Negatives

• Each of the two screens is relatively small
• Physical design is bulky and uninspired

Sony PSP

Positives

• Widescreen color display is beautiful—perhaps the best feature of the PSP
• Powerful graphics engine is capable of running complex games with impressive visual effects
• Impressively sleek design
• Wireless multiplayer capabilities
• Ability to play audio and video files transferred from a computer

Negatives

• Both game system and individual games are more expensive than DS
• PSP games take a while to load because they are stored on tiny optical discs which transfer data more slowly than the DS cartridge system
• Relatively poor battery life (2 –5 hours)
• Unprotected screen is subject to scratching

I’ve heard about a new model of the Nintendo DS. What is it?

The revised “DS Lite” will be available in the U.S. market beginning on June 11, 2006. This redesign addresses some of the flaws in the original DS (such as size and unsophisticated visual design) while further improving on strengths like battery life. There are four areas of improvement:

• The two screens are significantly brighter than before and feature adjustable brightness levels
• The DS Lite is dramatically smaller (42 percent by volume) and uses higher-quality materials than the standard DS.
• The stylus used to interact with the touch screen is more comfortable to hold.
• Battery life has increased to between 10 and 15 hours using typical screen brightness levels.

If I get a Sony PSP, how do I watch movies on it?

Some movies are available on UMD, the native optical disc format of the Sony PSP. They are priced roughly the same as standard DVDs. If you have a large Sony Memory Stick card (perhaps one gigabyte in capacity), you can watch movies converted from your own DVDs using various commercial software packages. However, the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (DMCA) makes it a crime to bypass the security features of digital media like DVDs. Converting your own DVDs may be in violation of the DMCA.

Once I pick a handheld game console, how do I determine which games to get?

Ask for the advice of friends who have the same game system, as they may be able to provide recommendations specific to your tastes. In addition, you may want to visit a meta-review Web site for a broader perspective. These sites compile reviews from a variety of sources, often providing a standardized “score” for each game. The most comprehensive site of this type is GameRankings.com. Other review sites which gather information from multiple review sources include Rotten Tomatoes and Metacritic.

Final Thoughts

It’s a great time to buy a handheld game console. Whether you choose the multimedia prowess and incredible screen quality of the Sony PSP, or the highly rated games, innovative control system, and superb battery life of the Nintendo DS, you will find hours of entertainment within your grasp.

Back in the 1970s and ’80s, dueling videocassette formats VHS and Betamax (Beta) waged a long battle for supremacy in the marketplace. JVC’s VHS format emerged as the ultimate winner, but supporters of Sony’s Beta were embittered to see their investment in a technically superior format rendered obsolete.

History seems to be repeating itself as two next-generation video disc formats, Blu-Ray and HD DVD, are facing off in the marketplace. Motion picture studios and electronics manufacturers are attempting to repress their bitter memories of the VHS vs. Beta debacle by focusing instead on the truckloads of money to be made from consumers seeking the latest and greatest video players to complement their shiny new high-definition television (HDTV) sets.

On the positive side, both Blu-Ray and HD DVD could yield major improvements in video quality over standard DVDs. The differences between the two formats boil down to this:
Blu-Ray discs will hold more information, while HD DVD discs will cost less to manufacture. The ultimate victor of this format war is unclear, though holiday season sales numbers should provide some indication.

One thing is clear—consumers who pick the wrong format will lose. As a result, it’s probably prudent for all but the most risk-seeking shoppers to wait for a clear leader to emerge before committing to either Blu-Ray or HD DVD.

But I want better picture quality now. Can I do anything to make current DVDs look better on my HDTV set?

By picking the right kind of DVD player, it is possible to improve the picture quality of DVDs on your HDTV set. There are three basic kinds of DVD players on the market today.

• Standard DVD players work perfectly for traditional TVs, but can fall short for use with HDTV sets.
• A progressive scan DVD player “de-interlaces” the video signal, yielding a more fluid image. The improvement over a standard player is noticeable, but not spectacular.
• An upconverting DVD player is probably the best choice for an HDTV owner seeking optimal quality from today’s DVDs. These players change, or “upconvert,” the DVD’s native 480i signal into a high-definition digital signal. Early reports of HD DVD players suggest that images from a good upconverting DVD player can rival those from first-generation HD DVD players.

If you have a high-end HDTV, its built-in video processing circuitry (called a scaler) could theoretically produce better results than those from an upconverting DVD player, but in most cases, an upconverting player provides better image quality than standard players.

Are there any downsides to upconverting DVD players?

Price may be a barrier for some people, as a good upconverting DVD player may cost $200. This may seem to be too much to pay when typical DVD players may be found for as little as $50 on sale. While it’s true that upconverting DVD players command a premium price over standard units, next-generation disc players will take an even bigger bite out of your paycheck. For example, the first HD DVD player to appear in stores, the Toshiba HD-A1, has a retail price of $500.

The other possible downside to buying an upconverting DVD player is incompatibility with either of the next-generation formats. Some consumers may not want to invest a couple of hundred dollars in a player which will not be compatible with the very latest disc technology. While there’s no getting around the incompatibility issue, it is entirely possible that current upconverting players will do a better job of displaying traditional DVDs than either Blu-Ray or HD DVD players.

Final Thoughts

The next generation of video disc players promises remarkable image quality, but the format war makes it a dangerous time to be an early adopter. Instead, HDTV owners may want to buy an upconverting DVD player to ensure that current DVDs look their best.

Resources

High definition video disc formats: Blu-Ray and HD DVD

• Digital Digest: The High Definition DVD FAQ
  

Maximizing standard DVD for HDTV screens

• A Primer on DVD in a High-Def world
• Upconverting DVD Player Options/Impressions (includes a list of upconverting DVD players)

It’s simple. By using the techniques listed in this report, you can easily save 10 to 20 percent compared to typical store prices. In addition, you may be able to achieve these savings without driving to the store and waiting in line to pay for your purchases.

Fortunately, there are ways to use the Internet to find bargains at local establishments (sometimes called “brick-and-mortar” stores to differentiate them from online stores).

You may want to check the Web site of a local store to see if they have any specials or coupons. This technique works well for restaurants, but it’s worth checking for other purchases too.

One useful tool for local shopping is SalesCircular.com. This Web site compiles sale prices from Sunday advertising circulars for major stores like Target, Office Max, Staples, and Sears. So if you’re trying to find a deal on anything from an LCD computer monitor to a vacuum cleaner, SalesCircular will show you where they are on sale and for how much.

Are there any price comparison tools for online stores?

Yes. There are many Internet tools available to help you find the best price online. They often allow you to search for a specific brand and model so you’re sure to get exactly what you want. Once you find a specific item, you’ll be provided with the base price, sales tax (if any), standard shipping price, and total cost from a variety of online stores. In most cases, you can sort by total price, allowing you to easily find the best deal. Some commonly used online price comparison tools include Price Grabber, c|net shopper, and NexTag.

For certain items, you may be able to find a specialized price comparison tool – one that focuses on one type of product rather than a wide range of products. One such tool, DVD Price Search, allows you to find the lowest combined price for a group of DVDs.

What is a discount code?

During the checkout process, some online stores allow shoppers to enter a code to receive a discount on the order. Generally speaking, these codes are only valid for a finite length of time (perhaps a month or two) and generally can only be used by a specific customer one time.

Online stores often email these discount codes to their current customers, but crafty consumers can sometimes discover these codes online. Here’s how to do it:

1. Note the exact wording of the phrase next to the discount code box (e.g., discount code, promotional code, or coupon code).
2. In the search engine Google, type in the store’s name followed by the exact wording of the discount phrase in quotation marks (e.g., type Acme Products “discount code”).
3. Visit some of the sites displayed in the search results. Sometimes codes will be presented in a table.
4. Try the code during the checkout process. If you get an invalid code message, go back to your Internet search results to find another one.

You won’t always be able to discover a valid code, but the possibility of saving some money can make the five minutes of searching worthwhile.

Are there any other ways to discover deals?

Absolutely. There are a number of Web sites which have editors scouring the Internet for shopping bargains. When they find a notable deal, they post it (along with a link) on the Internet. Here are a few examples of bargain-tracking sites:

• Slick Deals
• Got | Apex
• Daily eDeals
• Fat Wallet

How can I tell if an online store is trustworthy?

This is an important question, because the lowest priced vendor may not necessarily be your best choice. It may be worth an extra $5 or $10 to buy from a trusted store. Use a site like Reseller Ratings to see customer comments and ratings for hundreds of online stores.

Are there any downsides to online bargains?

When you purchase an item online, returns may be more cumbersome than if you buy locally. Make sure to read the fine print to see whether a restocking fee will be assessed if you need to return something. Any purchase you make using your credit card, either online or at a traditional brick-and-mortar store, puts you at some risk of fraud or identity theft.

Final Thoughts

Sometimes a few minutes of online research on a product can yield significant savings. The online store price comparison tools can be especially valuable for consumers looking for a specific item. At the very least, they can provide a benchmark against which you can compare prices at a local business.

Resources

Brick-and-mortar store price comparison

• Sales Circular

Online store price comparison

• Price Grabber
• C|net Shopper
• NexTag
• Price Watch
• DVD Price Search

Sites to help you find good deals

• Slick Deals
• Got | Apex
• Daily eDeals
• Fat Wallet

Online store ratings

• Reseller Ratings

LED flashlights use an electronic component called a white light-emitting diode (LED) instead of a traditional incandescent bulb as a light source. LED flashlights enjoy several advantages over incandescent lights:

• LED flashlights typically have longer battery life than traditional flashlights, which waste a lot of their energy via heat.
• There is no need to replace the bulb during the typical lifespan of light, as LEDs will last up to 100,000 hours (or 11 years of continuous use).
• LED flashlights are much more shock-resistant than traditional flashlights, which rely on relatively fragile bulbs to produce light.
• The small size of the LED “bulb” allows for great flexibility in design.

The company which makes the popular Maglite ® flashlight has just announced that it will be joining the party with its MAG-LED TM line of flashlights, providing further evidence that LEDs are here to stay.

No. There is wide variation in the quality of LEDs used in flashlights. Technology is constantly improving, so an LED flashlight from a few years ago will probably not be as bright as current models. Even among new models there are significant differences in light output.

If brightness is critically important, you may want to look for one which is rated at 1 watt (1W) or greater. Also, flashlights which use Luxeon LEDs are reported to be significantly brighter than standard LEDs. Visit the Web sites listed in the Resources section for more information.

What specialty LED flashlights are available?

The technology used in LED flashlights has been adapted into many forms. One common variety is the keychain flashlight. LED headlamp flashlights are useful when you need lighting with both hands free. Finally, LED technology has been used in camping lanterns, providing a safer and smaller alternative than fuel-based lanterns.

Why does the light from some LED flashlights seem blue?

It’s true that LED flashlights may appear to have a blue tint compared to traditional flashlights, but in part this is because we have grown accustomed to the warm yellow glow of incandescent lighting. Ordinarily this blue hue doesn’t affect the usefulness of LED flashlights, except where color accuracy is essential.

What kinds of batteries should I use?

Common battery sizes like AAA, AA, C and D cells are prevalent in LED flashlights, but others, such as CR123, are sometimes required. Alkaline batteries are the most common type used, but you may want to substitute lithium cells for optimal battery life and better performance in cold weather, though they are relatively expensive. The most popular type of rechargeable battery in today’s market, nickel metal hydride (NiMH), may be a poor choice for flashlights which receive only sporadic use, as NiMH cells have poor shelf life, spontaneously losing about 30% of their charge per month.

What things should I consider when purchasing an LED flashlight?

• Size is the first factor to consider. While larger flashlights will provide longer battery life, they can be bulky. A small flashlight that you always carry is better than a large one you leave at home.
• Look for a flashlight with a regulation circuit to make the brightness stay constant over the life of the batteries, rather than gradually dimming over time. You may need to read reviews or discussion group postings to learn whether a particular flashlight is regulated. See the Resources section for relevant Web addresses.
• Determine whether you need a spot or a flood beam (sometimes called a spotlight or floodlight). A spotlight has a very narrow beam of light which is tightly focused on a subject. In contrast, a floodlight is very broad, spilling a lot of its light to the sides of the subject. If you’re trying to illuminate a street sign from far away, a spot beam is best, but if you’re trying to light up the entire room or something very close, go for a flood beam. Flashlights often represent a compromise between the spotlight and floodlight styles.
• The type of switch will vary. Some people prefer a simple push-button switch, while others prefer a rotating switch. In addition, some switches toggle between on, off and strobe (flashing).

Are there any downsides to this technology?

The biggest problem with LED flashlights is cost. Compared to inexpensive incandescent flashlights, which can often be found for less than $10, LED flashlights carry a significant price premium, frequently costing $15—$30 for a two-battery flashlight. Other potential problems, like an extremely blue beam, may be avoided by doing research in advance using the sites listed in the Resources section.

Final Thoughts

For ordinary household use, LED flashlights are hard to beat. Their mix of durability and excellent battery life make them easy to recommend. In fact, you may want to pick up more than one to ensure that you always have the right light for any occasion.

Resources

Web sites providing reviews and/or discussion forums for LED flashlights.

• Flashlight Reviews: http://www.flashlightreviews.com/index1.html
• The LED Museum: http://ledmuseum.home.att.net/
• Torch Reviews: http://torchreviews.net/home.htm
• Candlepower Forums: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/ (use the search function to find specific flashlight models)

Using the information within these sites, you can determine:

• Whether a flashlight contains a regulation circuit
• How long its battery life will be
• Whether the flashlight’s beam is spot or flood
• The color of the beam (blue or white)
• How it compares to other flashlights in its class
• If there are any easy modifications to improve the flashlight
• If there are any sales on flashlights this week

With this information in hand, you can make an informed choice on your next flashlight purchase.